Burrows crafted a close fit and a slim silhouette, the "Burrows Signature," along with the "lettuce hem," a narrow zig-zag stitch, which became his trademark. He was drawn to disco and used silk and jersey that reflected movement and color. Burrows' clothes were the embodiment of the era and its glittering Studio 54 nightlife aesthetic. The collection was bold and bright and drew the attention of Diana Ross and Cher. The opening of the "Stephen Burrows" boutique at the iconic Henri Bendels catapulted his career. By 1969, Burrows had opened O Boutique he then started his own ready-to-wear collection. Stephen Burrows was taught to sew by his grandmother. It’s all right there.” At the time of his death due to complications from AIDS in 1987, Willi Smith was known as one of the most successful young designers in America. New York City was his inspiration "Being Black has a lot to do with my being a good designer,” he said. “Most of these designers who have to run to Paris for color and fabric combinations should go to church on Sunday in Harlem. Smith designed WilliWear’s seasonal collections for 11 years, and was the first designer to house womenswear and menswear under the same brand. WilliWear was ahead of its time, mixing elements of relaxed fit sportswear with the high-end tailoring. In 1976 he founded his own line with Mallet, WilliWear, which " was a brand that you would see everyone wearing on the street,” Known for his reasonably priced pieces, Smith didn't "design clothes for the Queen, but rather clothes for the people lined up to wave at her". After dropping out of Parsons, Smith began designing for Digits Sportswear, where he met Laurie Mallet. In 1968 Lowe became the first Black woman to own a store on Madison Avenue.Īmerican designer Willi Smith was the streetwear pioneer. When asked, Jackie O simply said it was by "a colored designer." Financially, Lowe was taken advantage of by her clientele and by the mid-60s she was in debt, which was paid off by an anonymous friend-some say Jackie O. In 1953, Lowe scored a historical commission when she was hired to create the wedding dress of Jacqueline Bouvier (Jackie O). Unfortunately, this wouldn't be the last time that Lowe failed to receive credit. I’m not interested in sewing for cafe society or social climbers,” she said. She made the dress that Olivia de Havilland wore to accept her Oscar, but her name was not on the label. She was called "society's best kept secret." Lowe was highly selective with her clientele: “I love my clothes, and I’m particular about who wears them. In 1950, Lowe opened Ann Lowe's Gowns in Harlem and became the go-to dress designer for for the highest of high society-the Rockefellers, the Roosevelts, the du Ponts. Taylor Design School, which hadn't realized they'd admitted a Black woman so were required to segregate. She moved to New York and enrolled in S.T. Ann was left to finish her mother's last job: The creation of four ballgowns for the First Lady of Alabama. When Lowe was 16, her mother died suddenly. Ann Lowe was born in Clayton, Alabama in 1898 and learned her dressmaking skills from her mother, who made dresses for society women in the South.
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